Weekend No.1

In the tourism literature for Sierra Leone beaches play a major role with reference to the “taste of paradise” Bounty advert of the 1980s.   The reason?  It was filmed on River No.2 Beach located on the Western Peninsula south of Freetown.  Shallow crystal clear waters, turquoise hues, palm trees and perfect water for swimming - a true tropical paradise.

By a complete fluke – or great planning as I would care to believe – the end of my first week coincided with a beach party at Bureh Beach organised by another VSO volunteer.  No small affair this as there were over 100 people with food (dinner and breakfast), music and camping provided for the bargain price of 100,000 Leones (£16).  Bureh is one of the few beaches along the peninsula where there are good bursts of waves for surfing.  It was heavenly as you can see.

Bureh Beach



The drive down is best attempted in a 4-wheel drive as the road out of Freetown is rough and bumpy with small bridges.  Ninety minutes of this, I thought, will be interesting but suddenly the dirt was replaced by a smooth paved road.  Once again here you must always be ready for the unexpected.  I was lucky to have bagged a lift with people from the Aberdeen Women’s Centre which was super as the Centre is five minutes from the hotel.  We made various pit stops along the way for food and beer arriving at the beach around 3pm.  Time to find a spot for my hammock before the masses arrived.  The girl done good I think….

My first hammock

Hammock securely attached to the palm trees a dip in the beautiful water was a must.  Not the freezing experience of the Moray Firth of my youth but soft refreshingly cool waves lapping over my shoulders with the occasional larger breaker to submerge me fleetingly.  What a way to end the week.

The party cranked up as the sound system pumped out music which in the most part was new to me.  You know me – there’s not much music on Radio 4!  The food was delicious and thanks to a seasoned expat a glass of red washed it down.  Glass may be pushing it as it was fashioned from a 1.5 litre plastic water bottle.  I really do need a penknife.  It was on the list but seemed to have been forgotten in the confusion of my final days.  After dancing and chatting until 12.30am I sloped off to my hammock.  I had ordered a mosquito hammock on next day delivery but it had failed to arrive so I tried to improvise with a lightweight hammock and separate net.  Not a great success but with some adaptation I may be able to patent something!  Sleeping was wonderful as the breeze came in off the Atlantic and gently rocked me to a deep sleep despite the music still pounding until 5am. 

At the end of the day as I stood for this photo


On the beach - isn't it beautiful?

the words on this fishing boat summed up how I was feeling.

The first week has ended with  another about to begin. What shall that bring?

Let’s start at the very beginning

The beginning of my journey did not start with ABC as Maria prescribed in the Sound of Music but rather ITC – In Country Training.  Last week was spent in the VSO Programme Office discussing the culture of Sierra Leone, health matters, VSO’s Sierra Leone Health Programme Area Plan (the reason I am here as my role is supporting the infrastructure of the Ministry of Health and Sanitation (MOHS)) and importantly for me a session on housing and roommates – I have lived alone for far too long for me to think that this will be easy.  When we had breaks here is the view we had across to Freetown.

On housing I do know where I will be living but my room will not be free until the week of 2nd of April.  I would love to be there before starting work so I could truly feel inhabitant of Freetown rather than passing through but hotel life will carry on for me for another week.  This is no bad thing with free wi-fi, 24 hour electricity, freely running water and air conditioning.  I shall, however, miss my fellow new volunteers who have headed off up country, North to Makeni and East to Bo. 

Another important part of the ICT was the introduction to Krio - the local language.   This is what I shall have to master for conversing with my neighbours, colleagues, taxi drivers and market stall holders.  My aptitude for languages is being stressed here as despite many English words being incorporated the sentence construction is simple but different.  Watch this space for updates on my progress.

After four days in Aberdeen we crossed the bridge into central Freetown with a city tour.  How to describe Freetown?  Chaotic, frenetic, hot, dusty, humid, noisy and bustling are a few adjectives that come to mind.  It is hot, hot, hot so I would say I am glowing all the time.  Life wouldn’t be the same without a layer of sweat on my forehead and top lip.

The compensation for all this are the beaches.  At the hotel we are near the Aberdeen end of Lumley Beach – a two mile stretch of white sand.  The water isn’t that great for swimming in but it is so relaxing to wander along the watching the runners and many games of football. 

Not a bad life all in all.

Goodbye Surbiton, Hello Freetown

Yesterday was one of those strange days when you wake in one country and go to bed in another.  The strangeness was heightened when I realised that I would be going to bed here for a number of months rather than the usual number of weeks when you head off on holiday.

I spent a quite a few of the 6.5hours of the flight staring out the window contemplating what lies ahead.  It wasn’t a bad view.

We arrived in the dark at Lungi Airport which sits on the opposite side of the giant river mouth from Freetown.  The airport was chaotic in appearance but we manage to clear immigration and locate our luggage with relative ease.  Outside arrivals the lovely Bernard from VSO was waiting to guide us to our hotel.  A number of options exist to make the journey from the airport: road, ferry and water taxi.  We opted for the water taxi as the tide was going out.  Why that detail?  Well, the boat had become stuck on the sand bank and it took a number of people in the water and another boat to come along to dislodge it.  Waiting wasn’t too much of a hardship as we were on a lovely beach looking over the bay to the lights of Freetown with a gentle warm breeze gently brushing our faces.  Eventually we boarded and safely made it to Aberdeen.  Would you believe it? 22 years after leaving one Aberdeen I am about to start a new life in another.

Collapsing into bed at midnight in Freetown I reflect that this had been a momentous day and there was not going back now.  This really is happening and I’m filled with nervous excitement and anticipation about how the next days, weeks and months are going to unfurl.

10 days and counting

This is all becoming very real as there are now only 10 days before I head off for my adventure in Sierra Leone.  I have been in list making heaven and may have turned the corner where more is coming off than being added on.

The flat is slowly being cleared in preparation for the arrival of the removal men on the 12th.  On Sunday I had a Bring and Buy sale at the flat to rid myself of my superfluous belongings.  Here is a picture of the charity shop in my spare room.

Thank you to all that came along and helped reduce my storage bill!  Next step is to sort out my packing.......

Ready, Steady, GO! Well nearly...

Some of you may be surprised to see that I am still in the UK.  Friday the 16th was my initial depature date but unfortunately there was a bit of uncertainty around when my visa would be ready so I am now leaving tomorrow, Sunday 18th .

The extra time was very much appreciated and I managed to go from this:

to this

Sitting  on Saturday night watching my last Match of the Day and drinking white wine.  Sometimes things just really come together.  Didn't you all know about my Gary Lineker fixation?  .......