The eyes of the world on Freetown

Note: I wrote this yesterday 26th but was unable to post until today.

When I told people that I was coming to Sierra Leone the first thought in people’s mind was the 10 year Civil War of the 1990s when 120,000 people killed.  The war has been over for 10 years now and finally today people see a chance for justice.

As I sat at my desk this morning the TV was on in the background.  Today there would finally be a verdict in the landmark trial of former Liberian President Charles Taylor from the Special Court for Sierra Leone in The Hague and it was being broadcast live.  He was charged with 11 counts of War Crimes and Crimes Against Humanity as it was alleged that he fuelled the brutal 10 year civil war to profit from the country's diamond mines.

Although the location of the trial was moved to The Hague the Special Court buildings in Freetown were full today.  Hundreds of people were in the courtrooms watching the verdict live.  Among the audience were all the paramount chiefs from across the country.  The view from the Special Court is stunning as you looking to the west you can see the Atlantic over a sea of corrugated roofs.  No-one was taking in the view today as they intently watched the proceedings from the Netherlands.

The facts of case read out were shocking in their brutality.  It is not only the headline grabbing amputations/multilations and recruitment of child soldiers but also the raping of innocent women and gruesome murders; people were beheaded and burnt alive in their homes.

 “Talking peace and waging war the story of Charles Taylor” was one headline I heard today.  This arises from a key finding against Taylor which was he engaged in arm’s transactions at the same time as acting as a peace maker. He provided indispensable and critical support to the Revolutionary United Front (RUF). 

So what was the verdict?

He was found guilty of aiding and abetting war crimes on all 11 counts.   What were the crimes?  1.terrorism, 2.murder, 3.violence to life and health of individuals - murder, 4.rape, 5.sexual slavery, 6.outrages against personal dignity, 7.violence to life – cruel treatment, 8.other inhumane acts, 9.enlisting/conscripting minors under age of 15 to military service, 10.enslavement, 11.pillage,

My new Radio Four is the BBC World Service.  Their programme” World Have Your Say” programme is being broadcast from Freetown today and many views were expressed from the streets.  For some a guilty verdict is still not enough for someone who pronounced war on Sierra Leone.  People’s suffering can never be reversed and what does this bring to women who were raped and enslaved. Some feel justice has been done for Sierra Leone and for all Africa to say that warlords cannot  enrich themselves at the expense of the poor.  The verdict will hopefully bring closure to the this blighted time in Sierra Leonean history.

I spoke to my local shop owner who thinks it is all too late and will have no meaning  as it is so long since these acts happened.

I will watch the media with interest in the next days to see how it all pans out.

Same but Different (part one)

One month in Sierra Leone.  Could it really be one month in Sierra Leone?  I checked the calendar and yes it is.  So how does life in Freetown compare to life in London? 

Daily Routines

I am a person who loves a routine. I had some strange rituals at home but here my health depends on my daily routines.  Every morning along with breakfast I have my anti-malarial (doxycycline), women’s multi vitamin, probiotic, ADP and pop a couple of scoops of vitamin C powder into my water bottle.  The diet here is pretty nutrient deficient (I would kill for some green veg) so these supplements though nice to have in London are essential here.

At the end of the day my routine is more physical as I remember to apply my mosquito at dusk and tuck in my mosquito net before clambering through a small space into bed.  I have deet with me but I hate it so am using a local repellent cream which seems to do the trick.  Mosquitos aren’t too bad at the moment but will be much worse in the wet season when pools of stagnant water are everywhere.  The hardest part of this routine is that there is invariably something I need outside the net once I am inside so have to try and creep out with disturbing too much.   So another checklist: headtorch, book, watch and have I set alarm on phone?

Public Transport

Poda Poda

On a bad train day in Surbiton I would stoutly refuse to enter an overfilled carriage for the journey to work.  Here the equivalent is the poda poda (a small 12 seater minibus) which is never ready to leave until it is overfilled.  I had to use them regularly while I was still in the hotel. It was quite an experience to see people throwing themselves in through the back window rather than pushing and shoving through the door.  No regard is taken for age or gender with every man/woman for themselves.  On day three I was actually pushed on by my fellow passengers as they had taken pity on me.  They are a great way to improve your Krio by listening to all the conversations going on around you.  There is a driver and his apprentice.  The job of the apprentice is to shout out the window or open door where they are going.  I often here “Aba, Aba, Aba” from those heading to Aberdeen.  He also has to make sure there are as many people on as possible, take the money and make sure everyone gets off at their requested stop all of which they seem to manage very well.

Taxis

Well looked after black cabs have been replaced by ramshackle yellow taxis.  These are shared affairs with you shouting where you want to go through window and seeing if driver is going that way. No meter here rather set fare stages.  One way is Le1,000. Being an opoto (read white girl) I am often asked to pay two way for a journey the locals would pay one way.  If you want the luxury of having the cab to yourself you first have to find an empty one and then ask “cha cha”.  It is much more expensive at Le 10,000 to 20,000 depending on the time of day but you are guaranteed to be dropped at your door rather than the end of the street which is preferable if you are out after 11pm.  

I was initially pretty nervous of taxis as there is a scam whereby if you are the last person to get in the other passengers will tell you that your door isn’t properly closed.  As you turn to check they will quickly pickpocket you.  The whole taxi is in on it as the driver will suddenly say he isn’t going your way after all.  You are let out of cab and at that point discover what has been taken while being stranded on the side of the road. 

My strategy for dealing with this is to not get in a taxi if I am the last person or try to travel with someone.  After 5 weeks I am now much more confident and am hopping in and out as they are more readily available than podas.  There is another form of public transport but I shall save that for the next instalment…

Where did I roll my egg this year?

A belated Happy Easter!

In the last few years a tradition has come about for me to roll my Easter Egg in Elgin assisted by Kate, Hannah and Eve.  Not this year as I was many miles away from the cold and snow of Scotland. No this year it was the beach.

I may have mentioned before that there are beautiful, unspoilt, quiet beaches in Sierra Leone.  Luckily for me they are on the Western Peninsula so within 1-2 hours of Freetown.  I love to have something to aim for so I have made it my mission is to have sampled the sea and sand of each one in the next 12 months.  So where next?  Well here

This is a beach called Black Johnson about 1.5 hours from Freetown in time but felt like a world away.  I had been invited by three other VSO volunteers to spend Easter at Tito’s Eco Lodge.  Not so much a lodge but very basic accommodation of two huts and a couple of tents. Simple meals were provided and there was a cool box of beer for sale. 

Tito met us on the side of the main peninsula road to lead us through the forest to the beach.  It was like entering paradise: a beautiful sweep of sand with the waves rolling up the beach all framed by vibrant pink flowers.  There was a menagerie of animals including newly born kids curled up together under the table where we had lunch – there was much cooing by us girls.  In my short time here I have noticed that there are very few cats – dogs a plenty but a lack of cats.  Not so here as there was one black and white kitten who took a shine to us and, while AWOL in the day, could be found trying to jump onto our knees in the evening.  We were surrounded by the dogs during the weekend as they followed us on our walks up the beach and could be found sleeping around us as we relaxed under the shade of a tree in the day.  Quite a life: three days of swimming, sleeping, reading, eating and drinking.  Here are some more pics so you get the idea!

Ah but all was not quiet in paradise.  Tito had gone off to one of the other beaches leaving us in the capable hands of Alpha and Abigail who ensured we were fed and watered.  The lodge is very basic but they did have a generator which allowed them to watch dvds.  The remoteness of the location and lack of electricity around meant the lodge was a centre of evening entertainment for the local youths.  Unfortunately this entertainment was in the form of Sierra Leone films with unintelligible plots played at a horrendously high volume.  Has you can see it had them rapt.

It must be said that dvds at loud volumes are not conducive to a relaxing evening. The sound of the waves lapping the shore was obliterated by the shouts of the hero and heroine.  On the first night we coped with this but by the second we had made a decision to ask for music.  Not sure that this went down well but they at least still watched the pictures but with no sound – just like my dad really!

By Sunday we were totally chilled so when Ed arrived to give us a lift back into Freetown he found a very happy and relaxed bunch.  We made our way back to Freetown where after a stop for dinner I had an early night – all that doing nothing is exhausting you know. 

Location, Location, Location

Finally after two and a half weeks in a hotel on 4 April I moved into my own room in a shared VSO flat.  Wow, how good did it feel to unpack all my bags and put them in the store cupboard?  Amazing, that’s how it felt.  To be settled is what I had been dreaming of - finally it happened.  It was not without its little ups and downs but I made it and that is all that matters.

So what is it like? A first floor, three bedroom spacious apartment with large communal living space and an amazing balcony with views of the ocean and Freetown, most importantly of all it has running water and a good electricity supply.  That said it is desperately in need of a lick of paint but I love it anyway – one friend has already suggested a painting party to spruce it up.   I am sharing with one other VSO which means we have a spare room at the moment.

Here are some pictures to help you imagine where I am when you think of me, which I know is often!



My bed - Mossie Net up

Mossie Net down



My oasis of calm

Kitchen



My bathroom with shower in corner



Balcony - perfect



View from Blacony

The area of town where I am living is called Congo Cross – a busy road junction where a number of key roads come together.  For this reason it is a great place to pick up taxis and poda podas to go “up the hill”, west to Aberdeen or east into downtown.  A main road starting at the junction, recently paved by Chinese workmen, is Wilkinson Road which has many supermarkets so I’m within easy walking distance of those, downtown, the bank, local fruit and veg market and various bars and restaurants.

All this sounds too good to be true and it is as there is some bad news.  VSO are seriously contemplating not renewing the lease in June – bugger is all I can say.  I am working hard to try and change their minds but there have been a couple of security incidents in past months (we now have a security guard at night) so VSO are not sure how they can justify keeping the lease.  I feel perfectly safe but at the end of the day it will be their decision.

I’m approaching the end of my first month and slowly but surely I am starting to find my feet – absolutely helped by the fact I have a secure home where I am happy.  I mean the shower is better than Countisbury – but that wouldn’t be hard!

Handbags and Glad Rags (part one)

In the UK my handbag was, often as not, filled with superfluous items carried on a ‘just in case’ basis.  Here it is very different as each item is essential and must be carried in the most compact bag possible to deter pickpockets and thieves.

 So what’s in my handbag these days? (my nice compact navy Mulberry one – perhaps not the most obvious choice in the developing world but a girl has to maintain some standards).

·         Money in three different places: small change for taxis and podas in front pocket, purse in main section and zip lock bag in the back zipped section.

·         Mobile phone – my lifeline at all times

·         House keys - vital

·         Hand Sanitizer – after you have touched the money it’s a must

·         Tissue/Toilet Roll – not always available

·         Mosquito repellent – always need to be ready for the little buggers

·         Hand wipes – not always water in toilets

·         Pencil case (for work with USB stick and office key)

·         Sunglasses

·         Head torch – it’s dark by 7.30pm every night with a minimal amount of street lighting

·         Doxycycline - in case I forget my morning dose

·         VSO ID – important if I want to use UN pool

·         Small extra torch – in case batteries on head torch go (thank you Maureen!)

Additionally in the day I always carry my water bottle. We are currently in the dry season with the temperature being pretty constant between 27^oC and 30^oC with levels of humidity at 75 - 80%.  It is hot and steamy!   If I could I would carry a towel to mop my dripping brow as I melt as I walk anywhere.  I never realised it was possible to sweat so much.  I am constantly enveloped in a fine layer so truly sweating not delicately glowing.  Unfortunately, I also have to carry a laptop to work along with power cable and a surge protector.  Luckily it is a relatively short walk to and from work so I can always drop it home before heading out anywhere.

Home? you ask, where is that?  All will be revealed in the next post.

From Ten Trinity Square to Youyi

Throughout my career I have worked in a diverse range of offices; from the imposing Ten Trinity Square - former Port of London Authority building at Tower Hill which is featured in the title sequence of The Professionals to more recently 30 Millbank which gained notoriety as the building attacked during the student march of November 2010.

Nowhere, however, can be as unique as my new place of work – The Youyi Building.  This is a nine storey concrete monstrosity built by the Chinese over 30 years ago.  In Chinese Youyi means friendship and I’m not sure what kind of friend would wish this on you.   

Youyi Building, Freetown

Although the views from the windows are quite interesting

View of the Youyi car park

Various Government departments are housed within its walls.  My employer the Finance Directorate of the Ministry of Health and Sanitation is located on the 4^th floor in the West Wing.  Be warned, though if you take the lift you have to disembark on 5^th as they numbered the Ground Floor as 1 when they installed it.  Not that I would ever dare enter the lift, it’s stairs for me all the way.  No quiet staircase this as it is littered with people coming and going or rather just coming.  There are inordinate amounts of people who appear to sit in the stairwell all day.  Those coming and going are the hawkers.  No need to venture to the shop to have your phone credit topped up as the boy comes to your office as does the equivalent of the sandwich lady.  No security issues as people wander into the building whenever they choose.  The most bizarre item on sale thus far was a hand mincer – just like the one my mum used to make meatloaf.  Very shiny and new he was asking Le 18,000 (£3), not today!

On the ground floor there is a canteen which is open to anyone.  It is cheap for me at Le 10,000 for an African main course but the food vendors outside are much cheaper for the local employees.  Vendor food is not for me as I am not sure my digestive system is strong enough for the assault.  So what are African main courses?  Basically rice accompanied by a sauce.  Each day has a special so here are my preferred choices:

            Monday               Cassava Leaves

Tuesday               Groundnut Soup

Wednesday          Beans and Rice

Thursday             Jolloff Rice

Friday                  Fish, beans and plantain

 No sign of any vegetables but it’s fresh and filling to make it through to dinner.

 Now we have discussed food I can move on to the most fun part of my day – flushing the toilet.  No quick push on a handle.  This employs three pieces of equipment, four if you count the toilet.  Here are the said implements.

Flushing equipment

So I use the small plastic kettle to fill the silver bucket from the large water butt.  When said bucket is half full I pour the contents down the toilet, ensuring the seat is up, job done.  Remarkably efficient once you develop the correct pouring technique as there has to be a bit of force behind it while still aiming the toilet.

Another new skill acquired in Sierra Leone.

Aw yu slip?

This is a question I hear every morning from going to breakfast at the hotel and arriving at work.  The language? Krio.  I mentioned earlier that I had lessons as part of the ICT.  So what is the question?  Well, knowing that “i” is pronounced as “ee” will allow you to realise that I am being asked “How did you sleep?”  At first I thought this was the receptionist asking a polite question.  Now I know it is a vital way to start the day.  My response varies between “well” and “gud” (good).  If you have a bad night the answer is “smol, smol”.  Luckily I have not had to employ this yet.

So what is Krio? According to my text book “Krio in a nut shell. Volume 1” Krio can be traced back more than 300 years when coastal West Africans were first in close contact with English-speaking sailors and traders.  It is a creole, or hybrid language, that combines elements of vocabulary and structure from English and a number of indigenous West African languages.  At first it sounds like a broken English but there is a grammatical structure which has to be followed making it more complicated than I originally expected.  My colleagues in the Ministry are helping by teaching me a new phrase every day.  So what have I learnt so far?

Wetin na u nem?             What is your name?

Mi nem na Lynne            My name is Lynne

Aw di bodi?                     How are you?

Di bodi well.                    I’m fine

At the Ministry I am sharing an office with the senior accountant.  He is constantly in demand with a stream of visitors.  Often he is out so I have developed a set routine.

Usay Mr B?                        Where is Mr B?

The replies are any of these:

I don com                            He has arrived (He’s in the office)

I com ot                               He has gone out (He’s away from his desk)

I don go                               He’s gone for the day

On Friday people wear African dress to work.  As a first step to me taking part in this the Director of Finance’s two secretaries have rechristened me with a Sierra Leonean name.  So from now on

Mi nem na Mabinty McKenzie